1981 18' Century Resorter
It's a long story, but I was present when my trailer was in the paint booth the day before it was delivered:
The guide-ons will be removed (sometimes)when the boat is put in the garage. To make them easier to remove, we'll probably replace the bolts with "ball-release" pins (given to me by John S.)
Designed and fabricated these "hold down"
Electrical connections on my trailer
In June of 2012, I sold the Liberty and purchased a 1010 Toyota RAV4 with V-6 and AWD. A Toyota wiring harness was installed, and an "aftermarket" trailer hitch.
(6/13/12) Mark, Picked up a vee belt (for altenator) yesterday, repaired the "too short" ground wire, and read a bit about the blue brake wire. Mine is connected to the surge brake "master cylinder". Phoned the trailer mfg. this a.m. He says power to the trailer's blue wire disengages the brakes. (Later I applied 12v to the wire and heard a "click.")
The ball hitch slides into the (white) tongue, actuating the master cylinder. IF the "backup wire" (blue according to the trailer maker, purple according to the U.S. standard) is hot, i.e., if the backup lights are on -- the master cylinder is inactive. (Trailer mfg. says wire colors are not standard between Japanese and USA.)
If none of this works (it doesn't), the trailer maker provides a metal gizmo to fit in slot, preventing the sliding of the hitch in tongue. Problem is, the gizmo falls out, hence my wooden contraption held in place with bungee cords. This is a REAL PAIN, because sometimes, at rest, the hitch has not been fully extended from the tube. and gizmo won't go into slot. I have to chock trailer wheels, "pull" a bit with the car, then insert gizmo (and remember to remove wood, before towing, so brakes will function thereafter.)
Toyota (maker of my 2010 RAV4 tow car) harness does not provide a "backup"
wire, so I must add one in future. And, of course, a new coupling
plug on car.
6/19/12 -- phoned trailer maker and actuator maker, but have not found anyone who knows amp draw of "backup solenoid." This from maker of actuator:
On 6/19/12, I measured the following:
Brown wire(s) = all running lights = 0.9 amps
Now I wonder how Toyota handles the fuses for
the "4 conductor" connection -- i.e., all except the
I've ordered one of these (72 inches long):
"The 5 way flat trailer connector is most commonly found on boat trailers that have hydraulic brakes. The fifth wire is hooked up to the reverse light circuit on the vehicle which then sends a signal to the hydraulic coupler to disengage the trailer brakes.
"Fifth wire added for surge brake lockout circuit which is becoming more common on today's newer boat trailers.
"5-Flat wiring Connector will still work with most 4-pole trailer connectors."
With today's developments in bluetooth, keyless entry, etc., one wonders why a complex wiring connection is needed (other than maybe a power conductor and a ground.)
My current boat trailer has surge brakes, so the "blue brake wire" is not needed. And, my hydraulic de-coupler is not actuated electrically so the purple wire is not used, either. (I wish it was needed. I do have the three centered rear marker lights and a few "side markers" not shown here.)
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Another pretty good web page by Grant MacLaren